Created in the 1980s for Italy's aerobatic squadron, the Frecce Tricolori, the Chronomat was conceived as a union of high style and uncompromising function – built to perform beyond 7G forces while looking at ease far beyond the cockpit. From Milan to New York to Tokyo, it quickly gained traction across fashion and pop culture, earning the title “the watch for the '90s” by Vogue. Now, the Chronomat returns with subtle but powerful updates, still instantly recognizable by its signature rider tabs and unmistakable Rouleaux bracelet.
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Cultural impact Released in 1984 for Breitling's centennial, the Chronomat—a blend of “chronograph” and “automatic”— first took off in Italy, where distributor Gino Macaluso championed it. On the high streets of Milan and Rome, it caught the eye of visiting Americans, who bought it on holiday and carried it home. By the 1990s, the Chronomat was everywhere: on wrists across the U.S. and appearing on American TV shows like Friends and Seinfeld. Across the Pacific, it entered Japanese pop culture as a plot device in the manga Kaiji. It was also worn by influential figures such as celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay, French business magnate Bernard Tapie, and actor Jean-Paul Belmondo. That visibility boosted its popularity in the U.S., Japan, and Europe, earning it the title “the great new watch for the nineties” from American Vogue. In 2020, under Breitling's newly established in-house design department, the Chronomat evolved. It was inspired by its 1980s roots, with a slimmer brushed case and a return of the Rouleaux bracelet, laying the foundation for the 2026 Chronomat. “The new Chronomat refines what made it iconic in the first place,” says CEO Georges Kern “We've evolved the design while keeping it true to its identity.” |
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Design update: streamlined and fully integrated
The first thing Chronomat fans will notice is the move from a semi-integrated bracelet to a fully integrated case and bracelet design. Where some integrated bracelet watches are limited in strap changeability, the new Chronomat avoids this compromise by cleverly concealing the lugs behind the case, keeping alternative straps as a viable option. The Rouleaux bracelet on steel and two-tone models features a micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer to extend the bracelet by one link on each side of the concealed butterfly clasp—even while still on the wrist. Ideal for the comfort of the wearer in temperature or pressure changes. On the chronograph model the bezel is streamlined from 18 individual components, by integrating the bezel ring, insert, rider tabs, and screws, into one single piece.
The models are offered in a color palette that's pared down to the essentials: White, green, blue, anthracite, ice blue, and brown. Case and bracelet metals vary from full steel, to two-tone, to full gold, with ice-blue models featuring their classic platinum bezel.
Chronomat B01 42
The chronograph model's wearability was enhanced by reducing the case thickness from 15.1mm to 13.77mm. The removal of the 1/100 scale from the rehaut improves legibility and simplicity. The crown guard has also been downsized, making winding and setting more comfortable. It's powered by the tried and tested COSC-certified Manufacture Caliber 01, which guarantees 70 hours of power reserve.
Chronomat Automatic B31 40
This model is powered by Breitling's new COSC-certified manufacture caliber B31, unveiled last year. With a weekend-surviving 78-hour power reserve and slim dimensions, it fits comfortably in a 10.99mm thick case. This model marks the first time-and-date Chronomat offered in a versatile 40mm case.
Chronomat Automatic 36
This updated design is crafted in a 36mm case made to suit a wide range of wrists. It's powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10, a Sellita-based automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The case was slimmed down from 10.01mm to 9.68mm. The model features executions with natural mother-of-pearl dials and gem-set bezels.
“Why change something that works?” says Breitling head of design Pablo Widmer. “This update isn't about reinventing the Chronomat, but about enhancing its simplicity. The proportions are more ergonomic, with recognizable elements brought forward by a streamlined case and bracelet.”
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Feel the Detail campaign That approach comes to life in Breitling's Feel the Detail campaign. Breitling ambassadors Austin Butler, Giannis Antetokounmpo, and Erling Haaland, each a regular Chronomat wearer, highlight the watch's mix of casual, urban style and professional functionality. Shot in macro, the campaign invites the viewer to experience the Chronomat through its essential details.
Chronomat Story: The untold history of the ultimate all-purpose sports watch For those who want to dive deeper, Chronomat Story (Watchprint, 2026) explores the origins and impact of Breitling's most transformative chronograph. Investigative journalist Gerard Tubb draws on original research, newly uncovered archives, and first-hand accounts to trace the Chronomat's creation for Italy's Frecce Tricolori aerobatic team in the 1980s, and its pivotal role in Breitling's revival after the quartz crisis. Richly illustrated and meticulously documented, the book examines the people, ideas, and risks that reshaped the brand and helped redefine modern mechanical watchmaking. |
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