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Часы Ювелирные изделия Аксессуары



Movement types
•    Manual movements

A manual movement is the oldest type of watch movement made. It requires daily winding in order to work. Manual movements are the most traditional movements and are usually found in very conservative, expensive, and collectable watches.
Important aspects to consider before purchasing a manual watch:
-  Daily winding is required.
-    When winding a manual watch, it should be wound until there is a feeling of tension or tightness on the crown. If it is wound past this point, damage to the movement may occur.
-   Remove the watch from the wrist prior to winding or setting. Failure to do so will cause damage to the movement, crown, and stem.

How manual movements work:

1.    Turning the crown winds the mainspring, causing it to store energy.
2.    The gear train transfers the energy to the escapement.
3.    The escapement meters out the energy into regulated parts.
4.    The balance wheel uses this regulated energy to beat back and forth at a constant rate.
5.    Every certain number of beats, the dial train transfers the energy to the hands of the watch.
6.    The hands advance.

•    Automatic movement
An automatic, or self-winding, movement winds itself while worn on the wrist, eliminating the need for daily hand winding. However, if not worn for some time, the watch will stop and require a manual winding. This does not include taking the watch off before bed.

How automatic movements work:

1.    Movement of the wrist turns the rotor, which winds the mainspring. Turning the crown also winds the mainspring.
2.    The gear train transfers the energy to the escapement.
3.    The escapement meters out the energy into regulated parts.
4.    The balance wheel uses this regulated energy to beat back and forth at a constant rate.
5.    Every certain number of beats, the dial train transfers the energy to the hands of the watch.
6.    The hands advance.

•    Quartz movement
A quartz movement uses a battery for its power source and does not need winding like a mechanical watch. It is the most accurate type of movement currently being produced.

How quartz movement work:

1.    Electricity is carried from the battery to the quartz crystal via the integrated circuit.
2.    The electricity makes the quartz crystal vibrate at a rate of 32,768 per second.
3.    These electrical pulses are sent via the integrated circuit to the stepping motor.
4.    The stepping motor sends every 32,768th electrical pulse to the dial train.
5.    The dial train advances the hands on the watch.



While a watch can last for many years and even generations, it does endure some wear and tear over time. Chronograph’s watchmaker have provided his professional advice and tips to help you keep your watch in the same excellent condition in which it was bought.

General cleaning
Keeping your watch clean on the outside lessens the chance of it getting dirty on the inside. Wipe off your watch periodically to remove dust, dirt, moisture and perspiration.
•    Cleaning a NON water-resistant watch:
-    Avoid exposure to any moisture.
-   Simply wipe the watch with a dry soft cloth.
•    Cleaning a water-resistant watch:
-   Use a soft damp cloth to clean the head of the watch and then wipe off with a dry soft cloth.
-    Metal bracelets can be cleaned by using mild soapy water and a soft toothbrush.

Maintenance schedule
In addition to an annual 5-point check-up, a complete movement overhaul is recommended every three to five years to keep your watch in primary condition.

Winding and setting
Manual watches:
•    Wind your watch fully at the same time each day.
•    Be careful not to force the crown. When it stops, or you feel resistance, stop winding. Forcing the crown can damage the setting mechanism.

Automatic watches:
For optimal performance, the automatic watch is to be worn every day and 'be active.'
•    To power up an automatic timepiece, give the crown about 20 to 40 turns and put the watch on your wrist.
•    If the watch has a screw-down crown, be sure to secure it after the watch has been wound and set to ensure the watertight integrity of the watch.
•    If the automatic watch is worn daily, wind it once every two weeks. Wind the watch twice a week if it is not worn daily.

Setting the date:
•    Avoid setting the date between 9 pm and 3 am as doing so can damage the movement's gears and pinions.
•    Be sure to adjust the date outside of this time period.

The average life of a quartz watch battery is 1 to 3 years. The life of the battery is dependent on a number of factors: age, condition of the movement, and the type of watch—analog/chronograph or digital. The more functions a watch has, the more frequent the need for battery replacements. When a battery can no longer power the watch, change it promptly. Otherwise, you run the risk of the battery leaking and causing damage to the mechanism.

Water resistance
Not all watches are designed to be water resistant, and there are various degrees of water resistance. It is important to remember that water resistance is not a permanent condition, and it must be tested and renewed periodically. Gaskets and seals used to seal the watch worsen over time and will need to be replaced.

Swimming with your watch:
•    If your watch is designed for water activities, be sure the crown is pushed down or screwed in tightly before wearing it in water.
•    While in a moist environment, do not operate or adjust the crown and/or push buttons as water can seep into the case.
•    After contact with chlorinated or salt water, immediately clean the watch with fresh water and dry with a soft cloth.
•    If the watch has a 'rotating bezel,' be sure to rotate the bezel while cleaning to remove any debris (sand or salt).



Considered the most important of the 4Cs, diamond cut refers to two important aspects of the diamond.
Cut grades are referenced on a diamond's certificate often using the GIA standards of Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. The quality of a diamond's cut always speaks for itself.

Carat weight is the easiest to understand of the Cs. A diamond's weight is measured in carats. The carat is subdivided into 100 equal parts called 'points.' One point equals .01 carat or 1/100 carat. A half‐carat diamond is 50 points. A one carat diamond equals 100 points.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses a 12‐letter alphabetical scale of D to Z. Using this scale, the diamond on the lower end of the scale (D) will have the least amount of color – it is considered a colorless stone.

A flawless diamond with little to no imperfections is often desired due to its rarity, but they are also the costliest.
The GIA Diamond Clarity Grade scale has five main categories of clarity characteristics with 11 grades in all.

•    FL (Flawless)
•    IF (Internally Flawless)
•    VVS (Very, Very Slightly Included)
•    VS (Very Slightly Included)
•    SI (Slightly Included)
•    I (Included)



Diamonds can be purchased in a wide variety of shapes and cuts. While there are plenty of interesting shapes to be found, diamonds are frequently purchased in the ten most popular cut shapes:

•    Round
•    Princess
•    Oval
•    Marquise
•    Pear
•    Emerald
•    Asscher
•    Cushion
•    Radiant
•    Heart


A regular, professional cleaning is recommended, usually every six months.
Chronograph store offers professional cleanings free of charge.
Our jeweler will also check for loose diamonds, bent or broken prongs or loose settings. Regular professional cleaning and inspections will also ensure your diamond warranty remains in effect.

Diamond Care
If you wear your diamond jewelry every day, you should clean it once a week. Ultrasonic cleaners are convenient and effective. However, you should avoid using an ultrasonic cleaner if your diamond has a serious crack or inclusion. The vibrations of these cleaners may enlarge such flaws.
If you choose not to use an ultrasonic cleaner, clean your diamond jewelry with a soft‐bristled toothbrush and a clean liquid detergent. Rinse with fresh water and dry polish with a chamois or microfiber cloth.


Gemstone Jewelry

Precious vs. Semi-Precious Gemstones
The impression that some gemstones are precious and others are only semi-precious is familiar to those who purchase colored stones. "Precious" stones were considered the big four - diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald. These gemstones traditionally commanded higher prices due to their extraordinary color, brilliance and extreme rarity. All other gemstones were considered "Semi-Precious," as they were thought to be less commercially valuable. Today, however, this distinction is considered insignificant due to the range of quality, availability, size and cost of gemstones in today's marketplace.

Gemstone Care and Cleaning
The very best way to keep your gemstone jewelry clean is to bring it in to our service center any time for a free cleaning and inspection. We're happy to keep your jewelry bright and shiny, and our expert jeweler understand the best cleaning method for your jewelry. However, should you choose to clean your jewelry yourself, here are a few things to keep in mind:
•    Start with the mildest treatment first.
•    Use a jewelry polishing cloth to gently wipe over the areas that need a polish. If you don't have a polishing cloth, any cotton or microfiber fabric will work. You might even use an old cloth diaper.
•    Do not use facial tissue or paper towels, as the fibers in paper can scratch your gemstone.
•    For best results, use a non-detergent soap and warm water to clean your jewelry.
•    There are ultrasonic jewelry cleaners that can be used at home, but check to make sure your gemstone can withstand such cleaning.



Jewelry Care

All fine jewelry needs proper care. While certain pieces may need select care, most jewelry should be cared for using the following basics:

•    Sunlight ‐ Just like the sun damages skin, heat and light can damage certain gemstones. Too much sunlight can fade or damage amethyst and topaz. Pearls can bleach and peel if exposed to too much sun. And certain other gems, like opal, can darken if exposed to too much light. To remove any doubt, store jewelry in a dark pouch or jewelry case.
•    Chemicals – Exposure to common everyday household chemicals, like ammonia or bleach, can damage both metals and gemstones. Even chemicals that are worn on the body – like hairspray, perfumes and lotions – can affect metals and dull gemstones. To keep your jewelry looking new, it's best to put on any perfumes, lotions or hairspray BEFORE putting on jewelry. And it's always wise to remove fine jewelry before swimming or using any type of household cleaners.
•    Treated Gemstones – Many gemstones today have been treated, and these gemstones need special care. All treatments should be disclosed at the time of purchase. Treated gemstones may be negatively affected by heat, steam or ultrasonic cleaners and certain solvents. Follow instructions from your jeweler to keep your treated gemstone jewelry looking sparkling.
•    Ultrasonic Cleaners – While ultrasonic cleaners are great for cleaning metals, diamonds and certain gemstones, they should not be used in the following circumstances:
-   On organic gems like pearls, coral or ivory.
-  Any gemstones that have been fracture‐filled with oil, resin or glass. For instance, most emeralds are fracture‐filled and should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.
-    Gems that have been coated. For instance, Mystic Fire Topaz have been finished with an azotic coating and should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.
-    Certain heat‐treated gemstones.
-   Any gemstones that are susceptible to heat or temperature changes, like tanzanite, iolite, opal, etc., should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Cleaning Methods
Gemstones and diamonds can easily be cleaned with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Clean your jewelry in a bowl of warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly. Dry your piece with a lint‐free cloth.
Softer gems, like pearls, can be scratched easily. Clean your pearls in warm, slightly soapy water, with a very soft brush. Rinse thoroughly and lay your pearls to dry on a towel or chamois. Since silk thread will stretch, it's best to let the pearls sit until the strand is completely dry.

Diamond, gemstone and especially pearl jewelry should never simply be tossed into a drawer or box at random as they may be scratched unintentionally.
All jewelry pieces come in a lined box or pouch that is perfectly acceptable for storage.
Jewelry boxes that have individual felt‐lined and padded slots for rings, necklaces and earrings will keep them organized, clean and safe.
Pearls and opals draw moisture from the air, so storing them in a safe or lockbox is not a good idea. Store pearls separately in a compartmentalized jewelry box or in a protective pouch. However, the very best way to keep pearls looking new is to wear them. Pearls will naturally absorb moisture from the air and oils from the skin, which keep them looking lustrous.


Bronze jewelry care
The weather, pollution and frequent use of your bronze jewelry could affect the beauty of it. Here are few advices to maintain and preserve its beauty:
-    Always put the jewelry in separate bags or boxes they come with to prevent scratches.
-    Always use a jewelry cloth to clean bronze jewelry.
-    Don’t use your jewelry while handling bleach or detergents that can damage the plating.
-    Pay attention to cosmetic, perfume and body lotion products.
-    Water or chlorine could affect the brightness of the object. It strongly advised not to wear them while taking shower, swimming in the sea or a pool.



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